Loading too much laundry in the machine

A washing machine can look big and have plenty of space to fill. However, cleaning experts recommend that you give your clothes enough “space.” Even if the drum is full, you should still be able to fit in 2 fists freely. This will allow your staff to be properly washed and rinsed.

Not using antibacterial laundry cleanser

If one of your family members became ill with something contagious, such as the flu, a simple washing may not be sufficient. To keep the infection from spreading, you’ll need to use a special antibacterial laundry detergent. You can use chlorine bleach to clean white clothes. Follow the directions on the cleanser’s bottle exactly. Typically, it is advised to pour it directly into the washing machine.

Not cleaning the washing machine

Older washing machines have a lint filter that needs to be cleaned after each cycle. If you’re too busy, try to do it once a month at the very least. Remove it according to the machine’s instructions and clean it with an old toothbrush and a little detergent. For even better results, soak it in hot water for 10 minutes.

This tool may not be available on new machines. They have a cleaning cycle that should be run once a month. Some experts also recommend using cleaning tablets or liquid solutions to prevent the machine from descaling. It will keep your machine running smoothly for years and provide you with clean, pleasant-smelling laundry.

Washing with the wrong side out

Turn your jeans inside out after you’ve emptied the pockets. They must also be cleaned. Turn delicates, such as sweaters or cotton shirts, inside out. This will keep the fabric from pilling and causing fabric damage.

Not sorting out the socks

After putting socks together with the rest of the clothes, you might have a hard time finding them. Wash socks in a mesh bag so they don’t play hide-and-seek. Or use a clean old pillowcase instead of the bag.

Ignoring the “dry clean” instructions

Sometimes “dry clean” on a label basically means handle with care. This works for natural fibers, like linen or silk. You can just hand-wash them. But suede or leather would need special care that can only be provided by professionals. Otherwise, the item can be damaged.

Not regulating the final spin speed

The type of fabric you’re washing is influenced by the final spin speed. The speed of the process is measured in revolutions per minute. Cotton clothing can withstand speeds of up to 600 RPM, and cotton towels and sheets can withstand speeds of up to 1400 RPM. However, delicate fabrics should be spun at 400 RPM, whereas jeans can withstand up to 900 RPM. Exceeding the limit can result in holes and wear on the fabric.

Wearing new clothes without washing them first

Bright new clothes may bleed, but you won’t notice it until the first wash. So, before wearing a new item for the first time, wash it with other similar-colored items in the washing machine. This will keep the rest of your wardrobe from changing colors.

Not paying attention to pillowcases

Usually, bed linen does not need prewashing, experts confirm. Just choose a regular program with warm water. But this isn’t always true for pillowcases. Check to see if they have some makeup or face cream spots before you put them in the machine and use a stain remover or a pre-wash regimen if needed. This will provide you with clean bed linens without any stains.

By Madeline Wahl

Laundry myths

Doing laundry is always a learning experience. Should you wash your clothes in warm water? Do all-purpose cleaners work for all stains? Read on to hear from laundry experts on what you should (and shouldn’t) be doing to your clothes. 

More detergent results in cleaner clothes.

One common misconception is that using more detergent results in cleaner clothes. The truth, though, may be a little different. “More detergent does not make it work harder. Instead, it may leave residue on your garments,” Brian Sansoni, Senior Vice President, Communications, Outreach, and Membership, American Cleaning Institute, tells Reader’s Digest. “You’ll probably just need to wash them again, and these multiple washings can cause them to wear out faster over time.” Check the detergent label to see how much detergent to use for your load size and machine, especially since many detergents are concentrated these days.”

The hotter the water, the better the cleaning power

Surely, the temperature of the water would have a profound effect. However, hot water may not have as much of an impact as you might think. “Hot water won’t necessarily get clothes cleaner. In fact, it can damage some fabrics or cause some stains to become permanent instead of being removed,” Sansoni says. “This is the case of a myth that may have been true in the past but detergents these days have been designed to work just as well, if not better, in cold water. Always follow the fabric care label.”

The more dryer sheets you have, the better.

Too much of a good thing may, well, be a bad thing at times. “There is such a thing as too many dryer sheets,” LG Electronics’ Laura Johnson, Research and Development, told Reader’s Digest. “Overuse of dryer sheets can diminish machine efficiency by producing a sweet-smelling residue and clogging your lint screen.”

You may disregard the fabric care label.

Always read the instructions—including the fabric care label—as with anything else. “There are moments when it’s tempting to just put everything in the laundry and call it a day,” Sansoni explains. “However, every piece of commercial apparel has a tag with the manufacturer’s care recommendations designed to keep the item looking its best.

All stains are created equal

If you think you can use the same laundry detergent for coffee stains as baby formula, you might need to rethink that plan. “The stain’s type actually determines how you can remove it,” the laundry experts at Carbona tell Reader’s Digest. They take stain removal seriously. In fact, Carbona has a collection of nine different stain removers called Stain Devils that are specially formulated to remove tough stains each and every time.

Using hairspray to remove cloth stains

“This is untrue of course,” Robert Johnson, founder of Sawinery, tells Reader’s Digest, “as hairspray worsens stains, especially the ink ones by spreading it out more. Instead, blot some water to the stain and to make it more effective, use a versatile stain remover powder.”

Filling the machine saves both water and energy.

What exactly is a full machine? Melanie Musson, an insurance specialist with USInsuranceAgents.com, says Reader’s Digest, “Your notion of a full machine may differ from the manufacturer’s concept.” “Washing machines are designed to perform best at two-thirds capacity. If you overfill the machine, the detergent will not be able to spread around and clean all of the clothing, and you will have to wash them again, wasting neither water nor energy.”

Visible stains are the only types of dirt you need to worry about on clothes

You might think that a shirt is dirty when you see a stain, but there’s a lot more than meets the eye. “Your clothes might be dirtier than you think. In fact, only 30 percent of the soils in your laundry are visible—things like food, dirt and grass stains,” Jennifer Ahoni, Tide Senior Scientist, tells Reader’s Digest. “The other 70 percent include invisible soils made up of body soils like sweat and body oils, which if not removed by a deep cleaning laundry detergent will build up over time and cause odors, dinginess and dullness. Deep clean provides removal of both visible and invisible dirt.” Looking for cleaning products to use around your home? 

for Laundry Day

Laundry rooms act as a drop zone in the home, collecting clothing, shoes, cleaning supplies, and other items, which can result in a headache-inducing mess. With these low-cost DIY hacks, you can transform your crowded chaos into an orderly workspace.

By BobVila.com

Fresher Towels

The secret to fresh-smelling towels straight from the wash? Vinegar. Add one to two cups to your hot cycle—and skip the soap. Then cycle through again as normal.

DIY Fabric Softener

Commercial fabric softener, which is available in stores as a liquid or in the form of dryer sheets, lives up to its name. What you may not realize is that vinegar, despite its lower cost, performs exactly as effective as those products. Pour the vinegar directly into your washing machine’s fabric softener dispenser, and if desired, add a few drops of your favorite essential oil (for aroma) and around a quarter-cup of rubbing alcohol (for disinfecting).

DIY Bleach Pen

Bleach pens are a great weapon in your laundry arsenal. And making your own is an easy way to save. Mix two tablespoons of cornstarch in a cup of water and stir on the stovetop until boiling. Once the mixture thickens, remove and allow to cool completely.

Save Lost Socks with a Clothespin

Rather than throwing lonely socks into a drawer until their companion returns, leave them on display as a visual reminder. Attach multiple clothespins to a plank of wood, each about 3 inches apart, to make a lost-and-found zone. Then, as you notice orphan socks coming out of the dryer, pin them up!

DIY Detergent

There are two reasons to go for homemade detergent over store-bought. First and foremost, DIY detergent is inexpensive, so there is a financial incentive. There’s also a health benefit: creating your own offers you complete control over the components. A simple method calls for only bar soap, washing soda (sodium carbonate), and borax, which fights mold and mildew.

Lay Out a Folding Station

When you’re working in a small laundry room or nook, every inch counts. Utilize the space above two front-loading washers and dryers by building a wood countertop; Bryn Alexandra purchased and cut plywood from Lowe’s to serve as a countertop for folding clean laundry.

Squeeze in More Storage

When you’re short on space in the laundry room, things can get chaotic quickly. But it might turn out the best storage space is hiding right under your feet—or under your machines, rather. Store-bought washer and dryer pedestals are expensive, though. So forget buying and start DIY-ing!

Add Fluff

Remember to bring the tennis balls inside for your dryer the next time you play doubles. Tennis balls are an excellent alternative to dryer sheets, and they also soften your fabric. Wrap them in an old white sock before adding them to your load to prevent color leakage. Tennis balls not only fluff heavy things like comforters, coats, and pillows, but they also help your clothing dry faster.

Write on the Machine

Keep a dry erase marker handy by your washer and dryer to leave laundry-related notes and reminders for each other. Any special instructions can now be easily communicated and you’ll avoid shrinking all those clothes that should have never gone in the dryer. For even better organization, use different colors for certain care labels—and remember to clean the marker off after each load.

Knit Hats

Though knit hats get soiled and stinky from sitting on sweaty heads all day, their delicate fabric and shape just cannot withstand a spin cycle. When it does come time to wash your hat, doing so by hand with a mild detergent will ensure that it maintains its structure and softness.

Memory Foam Pillows

Unless otherwise stated on the label, memory foam pillows are not machine washable. When these pillows go through the wash, they turn into soggy messes with no evident structure—and some don’t even make it out of the spin cycle alive.

Coins

Most people wouldn’t put loose change in the wash on purpose, but even doing so by accident can cause some seriously expensive damage should they break the machine. Before you put your jeans and pants through a wash cycle, check the pockets for any coins that might’ve slipped through the cracks.

Anything Embellished

Embellished items don’t belong in the washing machine, seeing as anything with sewn- or glued-on details is far too delicate to make it through a wash cycle unscathed. To keep these articles of clothing intact, either hand-wash them or take them to the dry cleaner for a professional touch.

Flammable Stains

Yes, the washing machine’s entire purpose is to get rid of stains, but there are some that just aren’t compatible with the appliance. Things like gasoline, cooking oil, and alcohol are all highly flammable, and putting clothes covered in them in the washing machine can start a house fire. If you do accidentally soil your garments with something flammable, simply spot-treat the stain with a solvent-based stain remover—like Seventh Generation Natural Stain Remover Spray ($4)—and then hand-wash the item.

Running Sneakers

Throwing regular sneakers in the washing machine is totally fine—in fact, it’s a good trick for keeping white shoes in pristine condition—but running shoes are a different story. Most athletic sneakers that go through a spin cycle come out smaller than before, so be careful to only wash your sneakers if they’re approved for the appliance.

Purses

Some amateur fashion bloggers might recommend throwing a dirty leather or suede purse in the laundry, but these expensive items should never, ever set foot in the machine. Not only will the washer severely harm the bag’s shape and material, but it will also mess up the zipper and any embellishments on the exterior.

Raincoats

Think about this for a second: If your raincoat is waterproof, then how is it going to soak up the water of the washing machine for a deep cleanse? Exactly. Instead, every time a raincoat gets washed, it traps the water like a balloon until it eventually explodes (and makes a huge mess).

Unzipped Zippers

Things with zippers can certainly go in the wash, so long as they are closed. Open zippers swirling around in the washing machine, however, can get caught on other items, potentially causing disastrous damage to precious articles of clothing.

Lace Items

As is the case for embellished garbs, anything made of lace is far too fine to be thrown into the washing machine. If you need to wash your lace, laundry care company The Laundress recommends hand-washing the item in cold water and then laying it in its natural shape to air dry.

Ties

Ties tend to be made with fine fabrics like silk and wool, and so throwing them in the washing machine will lead to shrinkage, damage, and/or color loss. Your best course of action when it comes to tidying up your ties is to just take them to a dry cleaner, where they can be properly handled by a professional.

King-Size Comforters

A king-size comforter is simply too big for a typical washing machine, and trying to wash one will both break the machine and leave the comforter just as dirty as it was before. However, most most laundromats and dry cleaners house industrial-sized machines large enough to wash almost anything. Head to one to both clean your comforter and keep your machine intact.

Pet Hair

Sure, a piece of clothing covered in pet hair might come out of the wash clean, but all that fur is going to linger in your machine until it either leaves via other articles of clothing or clogs the drain—and neither option is fun to deal with. Instead, lint roll your pet-hair-coated clothing before tossing it in the wash.

Pens

Always check your coat’s pockets before putting them in the hamper. Should a pen accidentally sneak into a load of laundry, it could explode in the wash and get ink stains on everything in the machine, putting you back at square one.

Anything with Rubber

When something partially made of rubber ends up in the wash, the heat from the machine destroys the adhesive holding it together, causing the rubber to either come apart or straight-up melt. And while some rubber-backed items—like bath mats and rugs—can withstand a delicate wash cycle, under no circumstances should any ever go in the dryer.

Car Keys

Nobody purposefully washes their car keys, but all too often they end up in a load of laundry anyway, resulting in some serious scratches to the washing machine’s interior. Also, these days, most car keys are electric, and washing them in water can render them unusable.

Bras

Not only can the washing machine destroy a bra’s underwire, but the undergarment’s clasps can also get stuck to other pieces of laundry and cause serious tears.

Excess Detergent

Douse your laundry with too much detergent and your clothes will come out of the washing machine with residue all over them, requiring yet another rinse cycle. What’s more, overdoing it on the soap can cause a build-up of mold in your machine, meaning that both your washer and your clothes will require additional cleaning.

So how can you make sure that you don’t have to do away with so many of your precious belongings? Keep reading to discover all the ways you ruin your clothing, plus what you can do instead to keep your garments safe.

1. You store your leather goods near the window.

Leather likes the sun just about as much as Dracula does—that is to say, not very much. Too much exposure to direct sunlight and your leather goods will suffer from “premature aging, discoloration, drying, and cracking,” notes leather company Buffalo Jackson Trading Co. Instead, keep your leather items away from sunny windows and heating vents. Putting them there might seem like a smart way to dry them out, but it’ll make the leather brittle in the long run.

2. You leave your gym clothes in your gym bag for hours after your workout.

Never, ever let your damp gym clothes sit in a wad in your gym bag or laundry basket. Why? “Moisture is the enemy,” says Sarah Brunette, brand manager of housecleaning company Molly Maid. Not only will doing this create a rancid smell that’s difficult to get rid of, but it’s also a recipe for bacteria growth and mildew. A similar situation can also occur if you store items in humid environments, so make sure to always keep your clothing someplace clean, dark, and cool.

3. You don’t stuff your handbags before storing them.

Storing your handbags flat in the closet is a surefire way to ruin their shape. To make sure that your expensive bags stay in pristine condition, fill them to the brim with T-shirts or other articles of clothing before carefully placing them in their dust bags and setting them off to the side.

4. You stuff your clothes in your drawers.

“Incorrect storage can ultimately ruin clothing,” notes Brunette. Not only does this messy method cause chaos when you’re getting dressed in the morning, but when it comes to certain materials like leather, it also creates creases and wrinkles that are impossible to eliminate.

5. You cook without an apron.

When you get home from a long day of work and need to somehow get dinner on the table in under 30 minutes, the last thing on your mind is throwing on an apron. However, if you’re making something that easily stains, such as pasta Bolognese or beet salad, then taking a few extra seconds to put on an apron could be the very thing that saves your blouse. Aprons are designed to shield your clothes from the oil, grease, and sauce that tends to splatter in the cooking process—so do yourself (and your clothes) a favor and put one on.

6. You use hot water for every load of laundry.

Though hot water is the most effective when it comes to cleaning clothes, not every load of laundry warrants it. Seeing as hot water is more likely to shrink and fade items faster, it should “only be used on heavily soiled or odorous items made from strong fiber like linen, cotton, and during synthetics such as polyester,” according to clothing care brand The Laundress.

7. You hang items that should be folded.

Hanging your big, bulky sweaters will only stretch them out and potentially even create permanent indentations in the shoulder area. So, when the dog days of summer arrive and it’s time to stow away your sweaters, make sure that you’re safely storing them in drawers or on shelves rather than in the closet on hangers. (Pro tip: You can use under-the-bed storage bins to save space and keep your sweaters far away from moths and other creepy crawlers in the attic!)

8. You don’t zipper things before you throw them in the wash.

When left undone, zippers have a bad habit of getting caught on delicate fabrics like lace and ruining them in the wash. “Pieces of clothing are more likely to get snagged with clasps and hooks,” says Brunette.

Thankfully, all you have to do to avoid this is to make sure that all of your clothing items with zippers are zipped up before tossing them in with your other garments. Brunette also recommends turning items with clasps and zippers inside out “to prevent holes and tears.” Easy as pie!

9. And you don’t Velcro them.

Velcro is just as dangerous to your delicates as zippers. If and when you throw things in the laundry with Velcro, make sure that no pieces of the clingy fibers are left loose.

10. You haphazardly throw detergent into the washing machine.

Using both too little and too much detergent can pose problems when it comes to doing your laundry. As cleaning service Classic Cleaners explains, using too little laundry detergent results in “laundry that may not be as white or as bright as it should be,” while using too much can result in an insufficient rinse and leftover detergent residue.

11. You use fabric softener on your workout clothes.

Fabric softener isn’t meant to be used on every item you wash. Take your gym clothes, for instance. According to clothing care company Rinse, this product “breaks down the elasticity in stretchy fabrics like nylon and spandex,” both of which are commonly used to make athletic wear. What’s more, “it also creates a barrier on the garment,” which means these specialized fabrics aren’t able to wick moisture away from your skin as efficiently as possible. That could make you (and your clothes) feel and smell worse.

12. You dry your workout gear in the dryer.

Another way you ruin your workout gear is by drying it in the dryer, particularly if you’re prone to using the highest heat settings. Rinse notes that the heat from the dryer “can damage technical fabrics and cause your clothes to change in shape,” so always opt for air drying when it comes to your sports bras and spandex leggings.

13. You don’t check your pockets before you throw things in the laundry.

Coins. Receipts. Wrappers. All of these things are in your pockets at any given moment, and all of these things also have the potential to ruin not just your clothes, but your laundry machine as well. Avoid ink runoff and soggy paper debris by double-checking your pockets before you turn the laundry on.

14. You let stains sit.

The longer you let a stain sit, the harder it is to get out. Whether a pen exploded in your pocket or you spilled some red wine on your new white dress, make sure to throw your soiled item in the wash immediately in order to avoid a permanent mark.

15. You use wire hangers.

Don’t hold onto those wire hangers from the dry cleaner just to save a few bucks. Brunette notes that these hangers “may rust or stretch out fabrics.”

16. Pull or snip at a loose thread on a garment with your bare hands.

Never pull or snip at a loose thread on a garment with your bare hands. Doing so can cause more harm to your article of clothing, potentially even damaging it beyond repair. If you do find a snagged thread, take it to a professional so they can fix it the right way: with a needle and some string.

17. You don’t use a lingerie bag for your delicate undergarments.

If you’re not using a mesh lingerie bag for your delicates and undergarments, then you’re doing something wrong. As Classic Cleaners explains, this inexpensive laundry accessory prevents nicks and tears in your delicates, maintains the shape of your bras, keeps socks from getting lost, and more. It’s a small investment that goes a long way when it comes to keeping your clothing in pristine condition.

18. You overuse your dryer.

When it comes to ways you ruin your clothing, your dryer is the number one source of damage. Though you naturally rely on this machine to rid your garments of moisture after a stint in the washer, overusing it—especially on the highest setting—can shrink your favorite items and warp them to the point that they can no longer be worn. For the best results, Classic Cleaners suggests using the low-temperature setting and air-drying whenever possible.

19. You don’t read labels.

If you’re not already reading all of your clothing items’ care labels before throwing them into the washing machine, then make sure to get into the habit of doing so. Using the handy dandy symbols on each garment’s label, you can determine everything from the ideal temperature at which to wash each garment to whether or not an item is OK to iron.

20. You don’t flip your jeans inside out before washing them.

Yes, you should always be washing your jeans inside out. According to denim brand Lee, this method is the best way to “preserve [denim’s] original color and appearance for as long as possible.”

“For people with sensitive skin, anything can trigger inflammation, dryness, contact dermatitis, and other skin irritations,” says board-certified dermatologist Ife J. Rodney, M.D., founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics. “Laundry detergent, fabric softeners, and even dryer sheets contain ingredients that can affect your skin.” As a result, Dr. Rodney says, “doing laundry the right way means taking steps to ensure your clothing does not cause allergic reactions or even breakouts.”

Clearly, you’re not born knowing how to do laundry, and you’re definitely not born knowing how to do so while navigating sensitive skin. Here, dermatologists and people with sensitive skin break down their hacks for washing loads without irritation.

And if you’ve tried these tricks and you’re still struggling with sensitive skin flares, talk to your dermatologist. They should be able to offer personalized advice to help you get relief.

Use special detergent.

“Your laundry detergent may be the culprit for your skin issues,” says Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research in the department of dermatology at The Mount Sinai Hospital. Fragrances and dyes in traditional laundry detergents can cause a rash known as allergic contact dermatitis, he says, pointing out that “this is the same type of rash that you can get from fragrances and other personal care products.” Cue the itching and skin discomfort.

When picking out a laundry detergent, Dr. Rodney recommends looking for something marked as “fragrance free.” “That subtle change can make a big difference,” she says. While you’re at it, Dr. Rodney suggests trying to avoid ingredients dioxane, ammonium quaternary sanitizers, and sulfates and phthalates. To check your detergent for dioxane, look for “1,4 dioxane” or “diethylene dioxide.” Ammonium quaternary sanitizers will usually show up as ingredients that end with “ammonium chloride,” while companies will usually advertise if they’re sulfate- and phthalate-free. Just a heads-up: Some detergents list their ingredients on the label, while others require you to look them up on the company’s website.

Watch how much soap you’re using.

“My skin is so sensitive, I’ll be uncomfortable all day if too much soap is left in my clothes,” says Los Angeles resident and public speaker Daphne O’Neal.

It might seem minor, but the amount of detergent you toss in with your laundry matters. “Overdosing your detergent in your washing machine can be a problem,” says Dr. Zeichner. “This causes the detergent molecules to become trapped within the fibers of the textile, leading to a direct irritation when it touches your skin.”

And it can happen even if you use a fragrance- and dye-free detergent, Dr. Zeichner says. His advice: “Follow instructions on how much detergent to use or use the premeasured pods.”

Avoid dryer sheets and fabric softeners.

Dryer sheets and fabric softeners are created with the intention of enhancing your clothes, but Dr. Rodney explains that they use a combination of fragrances, dyes, and surfactants (molecules designed to penetrate your clothes) and, “unfortunately, these can trigger skin allergies or skin irritations,” she says. (Many people steer clear of these types of products, even without sensitive skin.)

Alex Varela, general manager of Dallas Maids, a house cleaning service in Dallas, says she has “very sensitive skin,” and is also allergic to fragrance, making dryer sheets and fabric softeners out of the question. You don’t need to resign yourself to a life with stiff clothes, though. “I like using vinegar instead of fabric softener,” Varela says. “It does the job and leaves no fragrance, nor creates any allergic reaction.”

Do an extra rinse cycle.

Many newer washing machines give you the option of adding an extra rinse cycle to your load. If you have sensitive skin, Dr. Rodney says this is a good feature to take advantage of. “A second rinse cycle gets rid of lingering soap particles,” she explains.

O’Neal uses this hack with her laundry. “I usually set the washer for an extra rinse,” she says. “But if I make a mistake and use too much soap in the first place, I may have to go for a third rinse.”

Product Image: Front Load Washer with OptiWash and CleanGuard, Dryer with Super Speed Dry, MultiControl Kit and Stacking Kit set

Wash new clothes before you wear them.

It’s tempting to just throw on new clothes when you get them, but Dr. Rodney says it’s crucial to wash them first to rinse off any chemicals, dyes, allergens, or bacteria that may be lingering on the surface. “If you don your new threads without washing them, these chemicals can leak onto your skin thanks to sweat,” Dr. Rodney says. And this is particularly the case for people with sensitive skin, who could feel irritated “right away,” she notes.

Wear gloves when you handle laundry.

Dirt, allergens, and other gunk can lurk on clothes when they’re dirty. You may also not want to directly touch your laundry products, even if they’re made for sensitive skin. That’s why some people wear gloves when they do the wash. “It’s the only way to avoid any contact with laundry products and prevent irritations on my hands,” says Monica Davis, a hairstylist who says she’s “extremely sensitive” to detergents.

“Wearing gloves is a great idea if your hands are prone to irritation or allergic contact dermatitis,” Dr. Rodney says. “This is especially true if you’re washing some pieces by hand with harsh soaps or laundry detergent.”

Keep your laundry isolated from your household’s.

If the rest of your family prefers a harsher detergent or likes a scented variety, you’ll want to do your laundry apart from theirs, says Dr. Rodney. It’s also a good plan to keep your clean laundry separate, “as fragrance particles can rub off from one clothing or linen item to another,” she says. Meaning, you probably want to store your clean towels and sheets independent of the rest of your family’s linens, too.

Use Aluminum Foil

If you’re out of dryer sheets, throw a ball of aluminum foil in your dyer. The aluminum will fight static buildup and help keep your clothing separated.

Freeze Your Jeans

If you like to wear your jeans more than once between washings, stick them in the freezer between wears. The frigid air will kill bacteria that can cause odor.

Check the Temperature

Use cold water for dark colors that tend to bleed and for delicate fabrics that are prone to shrinking. Cold water is also an eco-friendly choice that will save you money on your energy bill. Warm water is best for man-made fibers and jeans. Use hot water for whites, cloth diapers, bedding and towels.

Unshrink Clothes

Did your favorite T-shirt shrink? Soak the shrunken clothing item in lukewarm water with a splash of baby shampoo. This will allow the fibers to relax, allowing you to stretch it back out.

Use Less Detergent

Using too much detergent can cause your clothes to remain dirty since too much detergent causes an abundance of suds that can trap soil on your clothing. Instead, try using half the recommended amount of detergent and adjust from there.

Use a Salad Spinner

If you have some articles of clothing you don’t want to put in the dryer, use a salad spinner to remove excess water. Then hang them on a rack to dry.

Choose Detergents Wisely

There are several recipes online for making your own laundry detergent which can save you money. Store-bought detergents should be chosen carefully. If you have kids and need to fight tough stains, choose a detergent with a strong cleaning and stain-fighting ingredient such as OxiClean or bleach. For those with sensitive skin or sensitivities to fragrance, look for a formula that’s unscented and free of dyes.

Wash Bright Colors With Salt

You can use salt to prevent colors from fading. Just toss a teaspoon of salt in with your dark clothes to help make the color last longer. Washing colored clothing inside out can also help maintain color.

Sweaters Should Skip the Dryer

Skip the dryer when laundering winter sweaters. Instead, drying them flat will help them maintain their shape.

Save Drying Time

When you’re running short on drying time, throw a dry towel in with the load. The towel will help absorb some of the moisture and help your clothes dry quicker.

Reduce Wrinkles

To reduce wrinkles and the need to iron, use a dryer sheet and set your dyer to the lowest setting possible. As soon as the clothes are dry, remove them from the dryer and fold or hang to keep them crisp.

Top-Loading or Front-Loading?

If you’re in the market for a new washing machine, the options can be overwhelming. Top-loading machines with an agitator often cost less and have a faster run-time than top-loading machines without an agitator (known as a high-efficiency machine). High-efficiency machines are better at cleaning and use less water than agitator models. Front-loading machines are more expensive, but do a better job at cleaning than top-loading and are gentler on clothing. However, front-loaders can take longer to complete a cycle than top-loaders. Do some research to find which model will work best for your needs.

Extracting color and creating dyes from natural sources produces beautiful results. Unfortunately, it can be a tedious process that makes it difficult to maintain quality control. By 1900, the development of powdered synthetic dyes dominated the market, and most industrial dyes were synthetic.

Getting Ready to Dye

The very first step in successfully dyeing something at home is to identify the fiber content of the fabric. Natural fabrics like wool, cotton, linen, and silk absorb and capture dyes well as does nylon. Other synthetic fibers like polyester, spandex

olefin, acetate, and acrylics will not dye evenly unless you use a dye specially formulated for synthetic fibers. Blended fabrics like a polyester/cotton will result in a muted, heather-like dyed finish unless you use a dye formulated for synthetics.

The fabric you wish to dye should be washed to remove any soil, fabric finishes, or sizing that may be in the fabric. If the item is stained, do your best to remove the specific stains. If they remain, especially oily stains, they will affect how the dye is absorbed in that area.

For printed fabrics and bleach-spotted items, use a color remover or stripping product before you apply the new dye. This will give you a more even dye especially if you are using a light colored dye.

Estimate the weight of the fabric or items you plan to dye. Many product instructions are based on the weight of the fabric and you want to be sure to use enough dye for good results.

Gather Supplies

It is important to have all of the supplies you need ready and on hand before you begin a project. No one wants drips of dye scattered about the house as you search for something. Here’s what you need:

• Plastic drop cloth or old vinyl tablecloth to cover the work area
• Plastic bucket, stainless steel sink, or standard top load washing machine. Do not dye in a fiberglass or porcelain sink because they may absorb the dye
• Rubber gloves
• Hot water
• Liquid or powdered dye(s)
• Table salt or white distilled vinegar
• Large metal spoon
• Test fabric or paper towel
• Chlorine bleach for clean up

Standard Top Load Washer Dyeing Step-By-Step

1. Fill washer with hot water.

2. Add dye, stir with a metal spoon to mix well. Add one cup salt for cotton fabric or one cup distilled white vinegar for silk, wool, or nylon and stir to mix.

3. Dip the test fabric or a paper towel in the solution to test color. If it is too light, add more dye. If mixing colors, adjust accordingly to achieve the look you want.

4. Wet pre-washed fabric with warm water and add to dye mixture.

5. Set wash cycle time to 30 minutes, wash and rinse.

6. When the cycle is complete, run another cycle using a warm water wash and cold water rinse.

7. Remove fabric and machine or air dry

8.Immediately clean washer by filling with hot water and adding one cup of chlorine bleach and running a full cycle.

NOTE: Do not dye fabric in a front load or top load high-efficiency washer. These machines do not use enough water to make the dyeing process successful.

Bucket or Sink Dyeing Step-By-Step

1. Fill a bucket or sink with three gallons of hot water per pound of fabric to be dyed.

2. Slip on rubber gloves and add dye to water and stir well to mix. If using a powdered dye, dissolve it in two cups of very hot water before adding to the water.

3. Test dye color with a paper towel or the test fabric to assess color. Add more dye to darken or more water to lighten the color

4. Wet prewashed fabric with warm water and add to the dye mixture.

5. Using a metal spoon, stir constantly for ten to 30 minutes depending upon the level of color desired. Try to prevent twisting the fabric which can cause uneven dyeing. You may want to dip the fabric up and down to keep it untangled.

6. Remove the fabric from the dye bath and rinse thoroughly in warm water until the water runs clear.

7. Hand wash the fabric using a mild detergent and warm water or wash in a washer with an old towel

8. Air or machine dry the fabric.

NOTE: Immediately clean bucket and tools with a hot water and chlorine bleach solution.

Tips for Dyeing Success

• Never pour or sprinkle dye directly on fabric. This will cause the color to be uneven.
• To achieve the richest color, be sure the hot water is at least 140 degrees F. or 60 degrees C.
• For dark colors like black, deep brown, and dark greens, using extra dye will give better results.
• For the richest colors on synthetic fabrics like polyester, use a dye formulated just for synthetics.
• A dye fixative will help cotton fabrics maintain the new color longer.
• Colors will look darker while the fabric is wet and before rinsing.
• If dyeing a garment multiple colors, start with the lightest shade and move to the darkest.
• After dyeing, always wash garments separately or with similar colors in cold or warm water. Add an old towel to capture any loose dye.
• If you cannot find matching buttons for your project, dye them yourself

Are you taking full advantage of this good laundry habit?

If you routinely pull your clean laundry from the washing machine and toss it right in the dryer, it may be time to break the habit. There are ample reasons for letting nature take its course and air-drying your garments and linens, and enjoying as a bonus that fresh scent and feel you can only get from the great outdoors. Consider air-drying clothes if you want:

To save money and energy

Air-drying will greatly reduce utility costs; after your central heating and air conditioning system, your electric dryer is perhaps the biggest energy sucker in your home, representing, on average, around six percent of your home’s energy consumption each year.

Your clothes fit properly

Ever put a favorite pair of perfectly fitting jeans into the dryer only to pull out something about a size too small to zip? The appliance is notorious for shrinking fabrics, particularly absorbent ones, such as cotton, wool, rayon, and linen. As high heat and tumbling action suck away moisture, fabric fibers pull together tightly and curl up in response, resulting in clothes that no longer fit.

To lessen wardrobe wear and tear.

Air-drying is much easier on your clothes. The combo of heat and tumbling wears away at the strength of fabric fibers, causing tiny bits to break away–that’s what creates the fuzzy stuff in your dryer’s lint trap. Natural fibers, particularly cotton and wool, are more prone to shedding lint than synthetic fabrics, but both are damaged during the drying process, which eventually shows up in the form of thinned-out towels and worn edges along with your clothing.

If you’re ready to give air-drying a try, first check local ordinances (neighborhoods with homeowner associations may forbid the practice). Then follow these dos and don’ts for great results.

DO keep your clothesline clean.

Wipe your outdoor clothesline clean of dust and bird droppings before hanging freshly laundered garments, linens, and towels. When removing dry duds, don’t leave the clothespins clipped to the line between uses; they’ll rust or get dirty, and that can stain your clothes. Instead, take down the pins and store them in a clothespin bag—Veamor makes a handy one that clips right to your clothesline, belt loop, or drying rack.

DON’T forget to check pollen and weather reports.

If you or a family member suffers with hay fever or other pollen-based allergies, it’s wise to avoid drying clothing outside on days when pollen counts are high. Most weather apps give this information, but if yours doesn’t, enter your zip code on Pollen.com for your area’s daily pollen forecast.

DO start with the largest items.

If hanging sheets, towels, and clothing on the same clothesline, start with the sheets, then hang the towels, and hang your clothing last. That way, you can make the most efficient use of the space. And leave at least an inch or so between items for good airflow, which speeds up the drying process.

DON’T hang sweaters or other heavy garments.

Forget about hanging your knit sweaters from a clothesline or indoor rack; that will lead to saggy shoulders and misshapen sleeves. Instead, lay sweaters, jackets, and heavy knit shirts on a mesh, flat drying rack like the one from OXO Good Grips (available on Amazon). Turn garments over once or twice as they dry to speed up the process and maintain even drying, as moisture tends to settle at the bottom of heavy fabrics.

DO give clothes a shake before air-drying them.

To stave off the stiffness that can occur on air-dried clothing and linens, give each piece a good shake before hanging it on the line or drying rack. Shaking fabric fresh out of the washing machine helps fluff up its fibers to prevent stiffness and keeps it from clinging to itself. And fabric should be fully stretched out—not crumpled or clinging—to keep wrinkles at bay.

DON’T forget a fan if air-drying indoors.

A gentle breeze is perfect for air-drying clothing, as it whisks away moisture quickly and evenly, and creates good airflow around the wet laundry. Simulate a breeze for an indoor clothesline or rack by turning on a ceiling fan or portable fan in the same room as your laundry, or opening the windows.

DO hang laundry properly.

Hanging wet laundry properly helps it to dry as quickly and wrinkle-free as possible.

• Pants: Line up the inner seams and then pin them to the clothesline or drying rack by the hems, not the waistband. As the slightly heavier waistband hangs down, it will exert a bit of tension on the fabric, helping pull away wrinkles.
• Knits: Pin knit tee shirts, skirts, etc. upside down, as the thicker fabric of the hem isn’t as likely to sag or show clip marks as the shoulders.
• Woven shirts: Ideally, you’d dry these hangers, but if using clothespins, clip the shirts by the bottom hems and cuffs.
• Small garments: Socks, underwear, babies or children’s clothing, and swimsuits aren’t generally heavy enough to sag when damp, so hang them in whatever position makes most effective use of your drying rack or clothesline space.
• Sheets: Fold in half and then pin to the clothesline by the corners. Add an extra clip or two in the middle for better security on breezy days. Flip the sheets halfway through the drying process to release moisture that’s gathered at the bottom of the fabric.
• Towels: Pin by the corners for a clothesline, or fold evenly over a drying rack. Either way, they will dry faster if you flip them once the top feels dry, but the bottom is still damp.

DON’T dry brights and darks in direct sunlight.

Direct, intense sunlight breaks down the dyes used on fabrics, and leads to fading. When air-drying dark or bright garments outside, the rack or clothesline should be in a shaded but warm spot, preferably with a slight breeze for better airflow.

DO let the sun bleach lights.

Conversely, take advantage of the sun to help bleach out white clothing and linens by setting these fabrics in full-sun, slightly breezy locations. Full sun is also the best spot for air-drying socks and underwear, as the sun’s UV rays quite effectively kill the bacteria that cause odor on these types of garments.

DON’T air-dry down garments.

When wet, down tends to form into clumps. Dry your down-filled jackets, vests, and comforters in the dryer, preferably with some clean tennis balls, as the tumbling actions helps restore down to a fully fluffy state. Air-drying these types of garments can leave them lumpy or misshapen.

DO fold laundry as you remove it from the line.

To keep your clean, dry clothes looking good, fold them as you pull them from the drying rack or clothesline, and then put them away immediately. Letting garments sit in the laundry basket encourages wrinkles.

DON’T be impatient.

Unless you’re hanging your laundry outside on a summer scorcher, it’s generally going to take longer for clothes to air-dry than in your machine. While it’s hard to generalize about how long it will take your laundry to air-dry—fabric type, air temperature, and presence or absence of wind all play a part—expect it to take two to four hours for most types of fabric on a pleasantly warm day with a light breeze. Just remember to never put away damp clothes or linens, which would invite mold and mildew.

And although it may take you a little longer to finish your laundry ritual, it will save you energy and the stress of dealing with a ruined piece.

Here is a list of 10 items you will want to keep away from your dryer:

1. Leather & Suede

This works for real and faux leather alike.

Even if your piece is drenched after being caught in the heavy rain, you will not want to throw it in the dryer.

The heat can irreversibly damage the fabric.

So, if you want to ensure your leather’s longevity, hang it up to dry in the shade.

2. Fur

Again, if you get caught up in a heavy downpour or if your fur simply could do with a bit of cleaning, it is best to keep it out of the dryer.

The heat can make natural fur fall out. You should hang it up to dry away from direct sunlight.

And when it comes to faux fur, the heat can actually melt or tangle the strands.

Dry it just like natural fur, but first, make sure to run a comb through it to separate the strands.

3. Sweaters

The danger when it comes to sweaters is that they can easily lose their shape when washed or dried incorrectly.

The heat is their greatest enemy, and it can cause both natural or artificial fibers to shrink or stretch.

And it is quite impossible to return a synthetic fiber sweater to its original design.

A few natural fibered ones are not completely hopeless, although the process can be tricky.

4. Wool Clothes

Although wool clothes are generally safe to either wash in the machine or by hand, these should never go in the dryer.

Like we explained with sweaters, natural fibers are prone to shrink, and wool is no exception.

Again, it is possible to attempt to restore its original shape, but it will be difficult and require a lot of effort.

5. Bras

The thing with bras is that they use stretchy materials to help provide support.

High temperatures damage these and can also destroy the bra’s original shape.

If you want to keep your intimates properly functioning and looking like new for a longer time, prefer to hand wash and hang them up to air-dry.

6. Silk or Delicate Fabrics

Never place delicate materials, such as lace, silks, or sheer fabrics, in the dryer.

This is because the high temperatures can irreversibly wrinkle them.

More than just that, zippers and similar details can get caught in the fabric and tear holes into it.

7. Hosiery

Whether they be made of mesh, lycra-blended, silk, or wool, tights should always be hung up to dry.

This is so you can try to prevent any shrinkage, knots, and pilling.

8. Swimwear

Did you know that you should always wash your swimwear after using it? And yes, going for a swim in freshwater counts.

This is so you can remove body secretions, sunscreen oils, chlorine, sand, or salt.

And always remember to hang it up to air-dry.

Just like bras, swimwear is made of stretchy material which can easily be distorted by the dryer’s heat.

9. Activewear

Guess what else is made of stretchable synthetic material? That’s right, activewear! These fibers are designed to support muscles and endure moisture.

So, to make sure they will hold their shape, keep them away from the dryer and let them air-dry instead.

10. Tennis Shoes

Whether these are canvas shoes, leather kicks, or some nice running shoes, you will want to keep them out of the dryer.

The heat can actually make the soles separate from the shoe. So, give them time to air-dry completely.